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Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Talkin' Turkey Day

OK, by now just about everyone has heard my spiel about brining the turkey. My lectures are working! I have been getting requests for my brine recipe for several days now, enough so that I posted it on Facebook. (see below in case you have missed seeing it previously).

So for this year's pre-Thanksgiving blog post, I am going to talk about two other important parts of the traditional meal - gravy and mashed potatoes. I make both ahead and reheat while the turkey is resting after coming out of the oven. The time it takes for the turkey juices to redistribute (about an hour) is the same amount of time it will take for the mashed potatoes to be heated through until bubbling and for the gravy to simmer and thicken.

To start the gravy, I make a stock a few days in advance. I picked up a package of turkey necks at the grocery store this week, but turkey wings will also work. I roasted the necks and an onion (peel on, for extra flavor) at 400 degrees until brown and slightly caramelized (see photo). This will give the stock deeper color and flavor. These went into a stock pot along with a rough-chopped stalk of celery. I added about 2 cups of water and 2 cups of stock from the grocery store. I generally use chicken stock, but when I went to make it last evening we had only beef stock, so in it went. The stock simmered for about 2 hours. I discarded the necks and onion and placed the pot in the refrigerator. The fat will rise to the top and solidify....you can just pop it off before heating. You can use the fat to start your gravy, or use butter or oil, whichever you prefer. Add flour to the melted fat, whisking and cooking for several minutes, then add the turkey stock. Bring to a boil and simmer until thickened. Taste....does it need more salt and pepper? When the turkey is resting on the carving board I pour the pan drippings into one of those fat separating cups, discarding the fat. The good stuff left on the bottom is added to the gravy base for even more turkey flavor. If for some reason it just isn't tasting the way you want (which can happen, despite your best efforts), a tablespoon or two of chicken or turkey base (in the soup aisle at the grocery store) will round things out.

The mashed potatoes recipe was given to me by one of my students, back when I ran a little cooking school in Maryland. The extra ingredients allow the potatoes to be reheated several times without drying out. Before making them this way I remember heating up mashed potatoes with milk in a sauce pan, and the texture was never right after that first time. Yes, these have a some extra fat and calories for sure, but it's Thanksgiving. We can worry about that later. When we wake up from our food coma, after the football game. And after some pumpkin pie and a brisk walk around the block. Enjoy your dinner and your day....Happy Thanksgiving!

The Recipes

Turkey Brine

1 cup salt
1 cup brown sugar
2 oranges, quartered
2 lemons, quartered
6 sprigs thyme
4 sprigs rosemary

Dissolve the salt and brown sugar in two gallons cold water. Add the remaining ingredients, stirring to combine. Add the turkey and chill overnight. (If you have an extra-large turkey and need more brine, use 1/2 cup salt and 1/2 cup brown sugar for every gallon of water.)

Day Before Mashed Potatoes

5 lbs russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
8 ounces cream cheese
1 cup sour cream
1 stick butter
1 teaspoon salt (or more to taste)
1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add potatoes and cook until fork tender. Drain and return to pot. Add remaining ingredients and using a masher or hand mixer, combine until smooth. Add milk or cream to thin if needed. Transfer to a baking dish, cover, and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before baking for approximately 45 minutes at 350, until heated through and bubbling.


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